The rest.

There were other things. Like:

* A contemporary art museum in Vienna with some of the best work I've ever seen on the top three floors, and the most disturbing work I've ever seen on the bottom floor.

* Snow in Prague.



* The torture museum in Prague. I know it's gross, but it's fascinating. Let me share. There was a technique called water torture in which the victim was strapped to a board with his/her belly raised up. Then a tube was shoved down the throat as far as it would go and water poured into it until the victim was horribly swollen. Then the torturer would beat on the victim's stomach with a stick. If no confession was obtained, the tube was yanked out of the throat and then reinserted and the process repeated. Most awful? This was considered "light" torture. Therefore, if such a torture did produce a confession, it was entered into court as a confession obtained without the use of torture. "The good ol' days," says Joel.

* Jack and Joel oversleeping and damn near missing their flight back to Amsterdam.

*

* More long walks. More cold weather.

* The Holocaust Memorial in Berlin. It was one of the best memorials I've ever been to because it's something you feel and experience, not just look at. You look at it, and it's a bunch of blocks. You walk through it, and you understand.

* Shopping at the Great Market in Budapest.

* Searching for a particular coffee house in Vienna for a long time on a cold night, finding it, and deciding it wasn't our thing after all. Okay, my thing. It wasn't my thing. That was me. I made us leave.

*

* The House of Terror in Budapest -- a museum that documents the Nazi and Soviet occupations of Hungary.

* Plum dumplings in Ljubljana.

* Watching Eraser Head.

* This dog in Budapest.